Contouring and highlighting are techniques that require tact and a practiced eye. While there are general guidelines one can use like demonstrated on the chart by Kevyn Aucoin, when transforming and/or correcting a client’s features/or your own, preferences play a huge part in the decision-making. BEFORE placing dark and lighter patches across the face, ask yourself if this gives or takes from the natural features. The purpose of contouring and highlighting is to enhance one’s existing look, not creating a new one. It’s very similar to the idea of home improvement. A designer will help adjust and update the look of a place, while a remodeler will leave you with a completely different look. When correcting, identify which features need most work and which need least.
Begin by working on the features that need least amount of work and climb your way up to the features that need the most. One of the hardest techniques to master is learning when to stop. This process will help you maintain the client’s overall original appearance (with a few tweaks), and help you assess when you need to stop. It’ll be easier for your eye to determine when you are steering too far away from your starting point. Working the other way around, your eye adjusts to a major change too soon, and pulls away that bar of restraint…
…Leaving you with a picture that’s not so pretty.